It's been a very busy week and I've not had the time to write my regular newsletter, so I thought I would do something a little different today. I'm just back from two days of whitewater kayaking with friends. That's something I've not done as often as I'd like this past year so am really grateful to have had such a fun trip with good food, good friends and surfing fun river waves in a new to me kayak.
Today started with leading a forest bathing experience for a group of therapists from the San Mateo school district. I knew I was going to enjoy it but after not arriving home from a long weekend till late last night, man my body did not want to move. I was excited to be leading this group but not thrilled with the process of getting ready. So I made sure to celebrate myself for each step along the way.
The forest bathing trip was a wonderful and connective experience for all as I invited us into a variety of sensorial experiences with the forest and the beach culminating in a tea ceremony made with local plants. Everyone had a wonderful time and I even got to give them some ideas for getting their students connected to nature.
Since all that left me without time to write my usual post, I thought instead, I'd take you on an adventure by sharing a story from nearly twenty years ago.
It Was The Best Of Times, It Was The Worst of Times.
We had been watching the swell report all week, knowing Saturday morning we would be heading out for an early morning kayak surf session. Forecasts predicted anywhere in the 15 to 28 foot range in Half Moon Bay. HHmmm, maybe Mavericks (the name for both the local giant surf wave as well as the annual surf competition) will be going off. Well, even if it turns out too big to surf, at least it will be one hell of a show. :o)
As Saturday morning dawned, the call was for 15 to 18 feet. Several of us met inside the Pillar Point Harbor and got ready to launch. Good friends, a sunny day on the coast and the potential for some great rides. It certainly was the best of times. As I got the Necky RIP kayak I had borrowed ready to play, I realized "SHIT!!" the jury rig fix I had planned for the broken seat was not going to work. I managed to procure another boat and haphazardly put the RIP back in my car. I'll have to readjust that later I thought or the tailgate will never close.
I continued to get ready and when finally done slammed shut the door. As I did, I was greeted with a loud explosion. Damn it, I forgot to readjust the RIP and my window exploded into pieces. In 2 years that is the third window I have broken on this @#$% vehicle. And though they all happened differently, each time it somehow involved a kayak. Certainly it was the worst of times.
Well never mind the window now, let's get on the water. All I wanted from the rest of my morning was to catch one good ride. Well OK maybe several good rides. We paddled across the harbor and portaged over the beach break. There was already a crowd with binoculars lining the cliff to watch the board surfers out in Mavericks. Damn it's huge out there we thought as we reentered our boats. Initially we all just played in the protection of the shore break. But due to the high tide, with waves washing both over the reef as well as wrapping around it, the surf was pretty chaotic and sloppy.
There were a few rides to be had, but I yearned for something a little more. After watching the outside break for a while, I announced I would head out there. I wondered if I would get anyone to join me and I also wanted them to know where to search for my body. ;o) I knew I was on my own when they replied with, "Good Luck."
As I made my way in a wide circle out around mushroom rock in the direction of Mavericks the enormous man eating waves were coming at me from every angle. Still I struggled onward. There were massive explosions of surf all around me. My head was below the water more than it was above, even when i was still upright!! It seemed as if Poseiden himself were rising from the depths and trying to skewer me with his trident.
And as if all that weren't enough, that damned great white shark that took a surfers board here last week was coming down a wave right at me. Doesn't he/she realize it's past the 7 days they say sharks stay around after an attack!! I'm just about to simultaneously get munched by the wave and the shark when...
Wait actually, it wasn't like that at all. Yes the waves were enormous and there were explosions of surf. As long as you found the right pockets though, it was less effort than getting out through a 3 foot shore break. There were also large animals in the water. But the harbor seals didn't seem to be making any aggressive maneuvers. Not wanting to interfere with the board surfers and jet skis, I found a spot between mavericks and mushroom rock where the water was walling up nicely. It was very impressive to see.
And unlike earlier, now the high tide was in my favor because these behemoths would crumble and disappear in pockets of deep water instead of toppling over and exploding in the shallows. I found what seemed like a likely spot to line up and... zooooommmmm I was off. The wave formed under me and I rocketed down the face.
I've never been so high on a wave before and it was exhilarating. It seemed as if there must be 3 - 4 boat lengths of wave face left below me as I took off. And yet the waves were of the friendly sort despite their stomach in your throat size. They never broke on top of me, instead breaking behind me and momentarily
rocketing me forward a bit faster before petering out. I probably missed more than I caught, but when i did catch them, oh what a great ride. :o)
When taking a break from surfing myself, I would paddle closer to the Mavericks action and hang out where the jet skis were staging. I saw some impressive rides and some very impressive tumbles too. The sunny day also made for a beautiful spectacle of the waves themselves. As I watched them breaking from behind, enormous clouds of mist would rise off their backs. As the sun hit them they initially glowed of deep yellows, blues and greens before ending in a sparkle of rainbow brilliance and color. It most certainly was the best of times. :o)
Gregg Berman :o)
11/12/05
Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful. - Joshua J. Marine